Monday 14 October 2013

Goldsmiths' Fair - Jewellery and Silverware 2013

The Goldsmiths’ jewellery fair was (shamefully) something I had only recently heard of.


As it was the second week of their annual showing, I thought it would probably be a wise idea if I went to check it out (especially since it was so highly recommended by my tutor). 



The Goldsmiths' Hall as a setting was simply magical. Walking into the expansive space with high ceilings, ostentatious decor and buffed up bouquets had my eyes darting in all directions. I felt like a child visiting FAO Schwarz for the first time.

On my way back from the cloakroom, I started talking to one of the designers there. His name was Martin Keane. His works were not jewellery specific as such, but I liked the refreshing possibilities his objects had, to be jewellery. His fluid and organic forms that are fabricated into unusual tableware were fascinating. I liked the certain 'edge' and peculiarity he had to his work. For one, his cuffling-like silver beakers were tipped off onto their sides, almost defying all laws of gravity. He was super friendly and so interested in what I was doing within my jewellery studies. He even suggested that a collaboration was in order! 

Already I could tell that this place was very much a networking thing. But what was also nice, was that I could really feel a sense of companionship floating around in the room. Not only were designers exposed to a new audience (such as people like me!) but they were also reunited with former, familiar faces. It was so lovely to witness the support and excitement of old clients. You can tell that people look forward to coming back each year. 

After a good tour of the bottom floor, I decided to walk up the (somewhat intimidating) grand staircase - gosh I felt like royalty in all it's ornateness! 

Sanni Falkenberg was another friendly designer who didn't mind having a quick chat with me. She was also new to the whole Goldsmith's fair and it was so uplifting to talk to a young girl who was similarly trying to get big in the jewellery world. 

I was stunned by her chunky statement rings. I felt totally in my element here. One piece in particular left me speechless. It was a black agate stone ring - super in size and shape....Oh just take my money! (Or maybe not...seeing as it was £3,000)

Sanni kindly let me try it on and I sneakily took a picture so I could dream of it daily. It was like having a glittering galaxy or a large, lustrous cavity on your finger. I couldn't take my eyes off of it. Whilst admiring her pieces, Sanni talked passionately about her process to me, explaining how she prefers to cut the stone open with no background knowledge of what might become of it. She enjoys the discovery aspect of what might be hiding within the stone and sometimes she is even able to find an amazing feature and treasure inside each one. I really admire her uncontrolled approach here.

Furthermore, I also love how her work fitted in neither the contemporary pigeon hole nor the fine jewellery bunch. It was a milky way of a mystery. 


Unfortunately, no photos were allowed, but here are some I've found from the internet to give you all a little bit more of an insight into what I just saw and experienced...


The charming two-way interaction I had with Sanni and other designers definitely made the whole experience a more enlightening and educational one. There was also a nice personal touch to it which I can only imagine to be quite vital to the whole buying process.


As I continued my journey throughout the hall, I spotted some more amazing rings that just demanded my attention. It was the works of Maud Traon. 

Hmm…how can I describe them to you? 

Well, I guess if you put all my childhood crafts into a blender (let’s say a bit of glitter, a pinch of play-doh, several my little ponies and some starry sequins to top it all off) and then poured the solution into a mold for setting rings, you would then have the pieces from Maud Traon.



Her strikingly black and spiky ‘Ferrero Rocher’ ring made from gold, onyx, glitter and rough diamonds, looked almost good enough to eat (but I didn’t so don’t worry!)

It also reminded me of huge claws or lion paws...


Sadly, I didn't have the chance to speak to Maud, but I did manage to read up about her in the Goldsmith's catalogue. I found out that her inspiration comes from apocalyptic landscapes and natural disasters. Her imaginative and explosive mix of colour as well as unpredictable form certainly reflects this. At one point, I was actually worried that her rings might start erupting, spraying out a confetti of molten lava...

What particularly stood out for me though, was how Maud wasn't scared to be different. Her works are daring, bold and brilliant. They are playful, yet sophisticated. All I wanted to do was dive into her colorful works of art, and never surface. They were extraordinary. Her work is pure proof that the creation of jewellery is most and truly an art form. 

In contrast to the chaotic works of Maud Traon, were the more minimalist pieces of Ute Decker. It’s funny how I’m attracted to pieces that can be at total opposite ends of the jewellery spectrum. Where Maud’s rings screamed loudness to me, Ute Decker's jewellery whispered such a beautiful silence. 


-    The so-called ‘architectural jeweller’ combines dynamic forms and clean lines with gorgeous surface texture to create one-of-a-kind sculptural jewellery pieces. 


Ute Decker once said in an interview that her works are not literal re-interpretations of actual buildings but rather major pieces of “jewellery that can be inhabited". I love this thought. It reminded me of some friends of mine who incessantly nest in the same piece of jewellery all year round. They are like little hibernating jewellery squirrels. 

By the end of my visit I was left hugely inspired, excited and motivated. I was stunned by the friendliness of some designers and also by their many manipulations of materials as well as their constant strive and drive to create something new.

Overall, Goldsmiths' jewellery and silverware fair was like an exciting treasure hunt, full of gems, thoughts and delight, I will definitely be returning next year...

See you there? 

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